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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has left the owners totally astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small place securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.